Success With Squirt Water Bottle?

[tj_johnson]

Okay, so we have no toxic plants and no breakables within reach, but HOW do you keep them off counters, particularly when food is being prepared - and out of the kitchen sink? I'm trying to reach Monkey the "off" command and reinforce with praise, but she sort of laughs at me. The sink never has dishes and is always rinsed out, but she is still fascinated. She is relentless when I'm trying to prepare food...

 

[admin]

Okay, so we have no toxic plants and no breakables within reach, but HOW do you keep them off counters, particularly when food is being prepared - and out of the kitchen sink? I'm trying to reach Monkey the "off" command and reinforce with praise, but she sort of laughs at me. The sink never has dishes and is always rinsed out, but she is still fascinated. She is relentless when I'm trying to prepare food...

You can put her in another room when preparing food or use a scat mat on the counter.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[MM3]

Once we decided on a SV kitty, we moved toward that goal. After doing research for years (we planned to wait to add to our family once we had gone on all our holidays abroad for extended stays) to make certain we had made the right choice to harmonize with our lifestyle and to provide a rewarding, full life for our future fur baby. By deciding on a SV kitty it became more important to SV everywhere that would be exposed to kitty. I followed Marilyn's lead ( naughty no more) made our home SV ready. Hours on utube making note of what all kitties liked and didn't find playful with perches and cat trees. And what would work within the space of our home. Being fair to us and our space not giving up the entire house to be all owned by kitty, but to have a compatable living arrangement. Using what I learned I designed a cat walk / penthouse ( her own stairway to paradise) to give kitty her private space as Marilyn recommends. As Marilyn as found out in all her experience benefitted me by not having to recreate the wheel and to have a better go at making this marriage be an enjoyable success. Getting our home ready .......even though we had no prospective leads on avaiable litters. All important breakables were moved, unimportant ones were donated. Couch and over sized designer chair covered. Placed 4 scratchers in different areas. I personally did not visually take to hanging wall scratchers seen in or at pet suppliers. And we're a ghastly price for what and how they were constructed. Shopped at a thrift store bought a photo frame for fifty cents & painted it same color as my walls. Had some carpet left over from different projects ht glued them in and it turned out quite nicely I must say. My son offered a tree he had cut down & mounted it in our living room. Now kitty has 2 ways to and from kitty paradise. I cleared a spot for a kitty landing in my art studio, no room for stairs here. Took a reminent piece of carpet rapped & sewed( need two people) it tightly around the entire jewelry dresser to provide access to her landing.
With all this done ...... Finally kitty arrives! She loves it all! Kitty has been with us 4 months (approx.) and is and has been a perfect angel. When she's had enough of us, she retreats to her space. She uses her scratchers, not the furniture. We love to grow roses and bring them indoors. Kitty is obsessed with eating petals. I am in the process of designing vases to hang on the walls, we can catch the fragrance when passing by and out of SV reach. I have collected vintage vases for years and have quite a collection, but they will be making someone else happy like they have done for me. One little mommie meow, and a soft pat on the cheek and I say " what vases ?". The list of what is important has done an about face. I didn't search out and plan this union to be a drill Sargent but to wallow in unconditional love for as many days as we are all blessed with.

 

[Louie'sDad]

try spraying the plants with vinegar, vinegar and cayenne, or possibly lavender (somewhere on this forum is a link to the lavender spray I use).

Thanks. I'll try it if you tell me that it works, or even if it helps a little bit.

 

[Louie'sDad]

I'm not sure ANY cat shows "predatory behavior" in a show ring to be disqualified...

I do think F1s are more intense and more determined...so if you went ahead and got one then you were accepting the challenge of living with a more determined, more persistent kitty companion.

I don't have a generation of SV here that a water squirt would do anything for, all mine are pretty unconcerned with getting wet. I do find that I have to make more compromises in my home because I wish to share that home with F1s. We've changed furniture, throws and blankets etc...fortunately I am no gardener so not having indoor plants doesn't worry me (they went fairly early on in the progression of learning to be a Savannah owner) and I have planted the backyard enclosure to be all edible/non-toxic plants for that reason. Our home decor is pretty modern and spartan to suit... pictures are hung high, breakables are in glass cabinets... we've simply adjusted to reduce the unwinnable battles...

My theory on punishments is that not only do you simply teach them to be sneakier but you also damage your relationship with the cat... positive reinforcement techniques and redirection techniques are preferable to me. As is just compromise to live more peacefully with them

Read the last section which I have highlighted. Predatory, aggressive.......we're splitting hairs here.


Savannah Breed Standard, 05/01/2012


SAVANNAH (SV)
HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 points
Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Eyes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Chin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Muzzle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
BODY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 points
Torso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Feet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Boning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Musculature . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
COAT/COLOR/PATTERN . . . . . 20 points
Texture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
CATEGORY: Traditional.
DIVISIONS: Solid, Tabby and Silver/Smoke
Division.
COLORS: Black, Brown (Black) Spotted
Tabby, Black Silver Spotted Tabby and Black
Smoke.
PERMISSIBLE OUTCROSSES: None
HEAD:
Shape: The face forms an equilateral
triangle: the triangle is formed by the brow
line over the eyes; and the sides follow down
the jaw bone with a rounded finish at the
muzzle. Above this triangle the forehead and
ears form a rectangle from the brow line to
the tops of the ears. The head is small in
proportion to the body.
Ears: Ears are remarkably large and
high on the head. They are wide with a deep
base. They should be very upright and have
rounded tops. The outside base of the ear
should start no lower on the head than the
height of the eyes, but may be set higher.
The inside base of the ears is set close at the
top of the head; ideally, a vertical line can be
drawn from the inner corner of the eye up to
the inner base of the ear. Ear furnishings
may be present; pronounced ocelli are
desirable.
Eyes: Medium sized and set underneath
a slightly hooded brow. The top of the eye
resembles a boomerang set at the exact
angle so that the corner of the eye slopes
down the line of the nose. The bottom half of
the eye has an almond shape. The eyes are
moderately deep set, low on the forehead,
and at least one eye width apart. Tear stain
markings are present along and between the
eye and the nose. All eye colors are allowed
and are independent of coat color.
Chin: From the frontal view the chin
tapers to follow the triangle of the head. In
profile, the nose is slightly protruding so that
the angle from the nose to the chin slants
back, which may cause the chin to appear
recessed
Muzzle: The muzzle is tapered with no
break. It falls within the bottom portion of the
facial triangle that runs from the brow to the
point of the chin. Whisker pads are not
pronounced
Profile: The forehead is a straight to
slightly convex curve from the top of the head
to the ridge just above the eye where there is
a slight change of direction and a straight to
very-slight concave curve from that ridge to
the tip of the nose. In profile, the face also
forms a triangle from the top of the eye to the
tip of the nose, turning to follow the jaw line
and back up to the eye.
Nose: Viewing from the front, the nose
is wide across the top with low set nostrils. In
profile, there is a slight downward turn at the
end, giving a rounded appearance. Nose
leather is slightly convex and wraps up over
the nose.
Neck: Long and lean.
BODY:
Torso: The torso is long, lean and wellmuscled
with a full deep rib cage, prominent
shoulder blades, a slight, but not extreme,
tuck-up and a rounded rump. The hip and
thigh are full and long and somewhat heavy
in proportion to the rest of the body.
Legs: Longer than average, well
muscled, without appearing heavy or overly
delicate. Back legs are slightly longer than
the front legs.
Feet: Oval, medium in size.
Corrected 6/1/2013 Savannah Breed Standard, 05/01/2012
Tail: Medium to thick in width. Medium in
length, ending between the hock and just
above ground level when standing with
preferred length just below the hock. Tail
should taper slightly to a blunt end. Whippy
tails are not desired.
Boning: Medium boning with density
and strength.
Musculature: Firm, well-developed, yet
smooth.
COAT: Short to medium in length with good
substance and a slightly coarse feel to it.
Coarser guard hairs cover a softer
undercoat; the spots have a notably softer
texture than the guard hairs. The coat is not
inordinately dense and lies relatively flat
against the body.
COLORS: Black, brown (black) spotted
tabby, black silver spotted tabby, black
smoke. No preference is given to ground
color on the brown (black) spotted tabby.
Bold, solid markings are preferred on all
tabbies. In any variation the lips are black,
and the tear duct lines are prominent. On the
spotted Savannahs the nose leather can be
pink to brick red surrounded by liner, solid
black, or black with a pink to brick center
stripe. In black Savannahs, the nose leather
must be solid black. Paw pads in either color
variation should be deep charcoal or
brownish black.
PATTERN: SPOTTED PATTERN ONLY.
The spotted Savannah pattern is made up of
bold, solid dark-brown to black spots, which
can be round, oval, or elongated. A series of
parallel stripes, from the back of the head to
just over the shoulder blades, fan out slightly
over the back and the spotting pattern follows
the line of the stripes from the shoulders
continuing the length of the body. Smaller
spots will be found on the legs and feet as
well as on the face. In the black Savannah
ghost spotting may occur. A visible spotting
pattern on the smoke Savannah is preferred.
In all divisions, any visible pattern must be
spotted.
TEMPERAMENT: The ideal Savannah is to
be a confident, alert, curious and friendly cat.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The overall
impression of the Savannah is a tall lean
graceful cat with striking dark spots and other
bold markings, on a background color of any
shade of brown, silver, black or black smoke.
The Savannah cat is a domestic breed which
closely resembles its ancestral source the
African Serval, but is smaller in stature.
Affectionate and outgoing, with exceptionally
long neck, legs, and tall ears, as well as a
medium length tail, the Savannah is both
unusual and beautiful. The Savannah is also
an exceptionally graceful, well-balanced cat
with striking color and pattern.
ALLOWANCES: Females proportionately
smaller than males
PENALIZE: Rosettes. Spots that are any
color other than dark brown to black. Any
distinct locket on the neck, chest, abdomen
or any other area not provided for in the
standard. Vertically aligned spots or mackerel
tabby type stripes. Cobby body. Small ears.
DISQUALIFY (DQ): Extra toes.

Temperament must be unchallenging; any sign
of definite challenge shall disqualify. The cat
may exhibit fear, seek to flee, or generally
complain aloud but may not threaten to harm.
In accordance with Show Rules, ARTICLE
SIXTEEN, the following shall be considered
mandatory disqualifications: a cat that bites
(216.9), a cat showing evidence of intent to
deceive (216.10), adult whole male cats not
having two descended testicles (216.11), cats
with all or part of the tail missing , except as
authorized by a Board approved standard
(216.12.1), cats with more than five toes on
each front foot and four toes on each back foot,
unless proved the result of an injury or as
authorized by a Board approved standard
(216.12.2), visible or invisible tail faults if Board
approved standard requires disqualification
(216.12.4), crossed eyes if Board approved
standard requires disqualification (216.12.5),
total blindness (216.12.6), markedly smaller
size, not in keeping with the breed (216.12.9),
and depression of the sternum or unusually
small diameter of the rib cage itself
(216.12.11.1). See Show Rules, ARTICLE
SIXTEEN for more comprehensive rules
Corrected 1/2013 Savannah Breed Standard, 05/01/2012

 

[Louie'sDad]

Exactly. I have no breakables within reach and all my trophies (in my case rosettes) are safely tucked away or hanging in a Savannah-free zone. It sounds like you were quite aware of the Savannah's personality before you got Louie, and I doubt you'll be able to change it.

There are 3 "Louie Free Zones" in my home:

1. my TV/Trophy room, where I have moved all of my house plants into
2. my office/computer room
3. my bedroom/bathroom suite where I have moved the rest of my house plants into

These 3 rooms have just too much "stuff" for Louie to get into. There is no way that I can completely Louie-proof them, and thus, they are refuges for my beloved house plants. I have given up on permitting him to enter my office, as well as my bedroom. The TV/trophy room is small, and I can manage his behavior to a certain extent. I spend a lot of time there either watching TV or reading and I feel guilty about leaving Lou outside the closed door. I know things will be alright on the occasions that I let him in, and he settles on my lap to groom/snooze while I'm in my easy chair. Eventually he gets restless and roams, invariably going for the plants, the light bulb in the lamp, or jumping on the shelves where my trophies are displayed.

As a trial, I reluctantly began using the water bottle a week ago, because I can shoot him easily while still laying in the recliner (the room is only about 12 x 12). If he goes near the forbidden stuff, I move my arm to reach for the bottle and he hears me move, immediately turns and looks at me. He knows. Then he sorta dares me to squirt him by edging closer to the forbidden "stuff". It's kinda fun, and makes me proud that he's so clever, but it IS frustrating. Eventually, after this keeps up for 9-10 squirts/encroachments, I have to put him out of the room and close the door. Breaks my heart, but there's no way that I can COMPLETELY Louie-proof this room as well as the 2 others.

Sometimes I sleep on the couch just so that I can be with him during the night. I make plenty of sacrifices for him, but I feel lousy because when I emerge from any of the "forbidden rooms", he puffs up, talks like crazy, and parades back and forth, tossing his head and rubbing on my legs because he's so happy to see me.

 

[WitchyWoman]

My cats hate the aroma of citrus fruit. There are probably citrus sprays you can use if he's as insulted by citrus as my 3. I leave grapefruit and lemon rinds in places where I don't want them and it actually works. You have to replace the rinds of course but the good news is that you're getting your vitamin C and repelling the cat.

 

[Brigitte Cowell]

Okay, so we have no toxic plants and no breakables within reach, but HOW do you keep them off counters, particularly when food is being prepared - and out of the kitchen sink? I'm trying to reach Monkey the "off" command and reinforce with praise, but she sort of laughs at me. The sink never has dishes and is always rinsed out, but she is still fascinated. She is relentless when I'm trying to prepare food...

Persistence. Being firm on the "off" and not giving them "attention" when you do it also. What I mean is, often when the cat is jumping up onto the counter, it is to get your attention. You exclaim their name, say no and what a bad kitty they are, and in reality they get all the fuss and attention they want. If you simply pushed them off the counter with a firm "off" and ignored them, they don't get the same "reward" for the behavior. And anticipating the behavior, most give a signal they are about to jump so make sure at that time you are ready to push them off the moment they do it. But know that you will have to do it over and over and over to get it to stick....

Another thing I think that was invaluable for me to teach mine to stay off the kitchen counters is to have a viable alternative perch for them. They want to be able to participate and supervise. So I have a small cat tree at the end of our kitchen island.... they are allowed to sit there but not step across and they pretty much obey that...when I am in the room. All bets are off when I am out of the kitchen of course!

 

[Brigitte Cowell]

Read the last section which I have highlighted. Predatory, aggressive.......we're splitting hairs here.


Savannah Breed Standard, 05/01/2012

Temperament must be unchallenging; any sign
of definite challenge shall disqualify. The cat
may exhibit fear, seek to flee, or generally
complain aloud but may not threaten to harm.
In accordance with Show Rules, ARTICLE
SIXTEEN, the following shall be considered
mandatory disqualifications: a cat that bites
(216.9), a cat showing evidence of intent to
deceive (216.10), adult whole male cats not
having two descended testicles (216.11), cats
with all or part of the tail missing , except as
authorized by a Board approved standard
(216.12.1), cats with more than five toes on
each front foot and four toes on each back foot,
unless proved the result of an injury or as
authorized by a Board approved standard
(216.12.2), visible or invisible tail faults if Board
approved standard requires disqualification
(216.12.4), crossed eyes if Board approved
standard requires disqualification (216.12.5),
total blindness (216.12.6), markedly smaller
size, not in keeping with the breed (216.12.9),
and depression of the sternum or unusually
small diameter of the rib cage itself
(216.12.11.1). See Show Rules, ARTICLE
SIXTEEN for more comprehensive rules
Corrected 1/2013 Savannah Breed Standard, 05/01/2012

I am well aware of the Savannah Breed Standard, being one of the breed section members that has reviewed it and voted on changes through the years.

The section you have actually highlighted is in almost all (if not all) cat breed standards. it's the minimum standard of behavior of any cat at a cat show. You can't have cats that don't behave well. It's got nothing to do with predatory or not.

 

[Dantes]

Thanks. I'll try it if you tell me that it works, or even if it helps a little bit.

Not sure what you mean by this, that I suggest things that don't work for me?

It works for me, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested it. I don't know if it will work for you, since I don't know your cat.